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Our second stop on the Easter weekend trip was in Alberobello in the region of Puglia. Alberobello is most famous for its large collection of trulli houses. A trullo house is a round dwelling with a conical top constructed from local materials – they are iconic of this region.

The houses provide contrast to the verdant landscape, but with harmony. It really is one of the most beautiful areas I’ve seen in Italy.

There are many stories about why the people of this region began building the trulli houses, but most seem to fall back on the theory that the houses managed to evade taxation. Most people have heard the colloquialism that in Italy, soccer is the second most-loved sport in the country, trailing right behind tax evasion. In fact, some estimates indicate that nearly 25% of Italians fail to pay their taxes.

The original trullo houses were constructed without mortar, so the idea is that they were dismantled whenever the tax collector came about. Seems like a lot of effort to go to to avoid paying one’s taxes, but to each their own, I suppose.

Typically one cone indicates on room, so a house with multiple cones typically has a room for each. Because of the construction style it was difficult to put windows into the houses, so they can be quite dark inside. Some of the houses also have subterranean levels, with the added benefit of the earth’s insulation to keep them cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Many of the dwellings also have whitewashed symbols on the roofs with various meanings. Some of them are old astrological signs, others are Christian symbols adopted after the religion became popular in this area. Still others are old magical symbols warding off malevolent spirits or welcoming positive energy. My favorite is the tree that represents the connection between heaven, earth, and hell. I do not, however, believe heaven or hell are actual places, so I like to think that the tree represents our higher moral calling, our baser instincts, and the person we are every day.

The houses are now protected under the UNESCO World Heritage Site regulations, so they are usually well-maintained and rather beautiful. I like that the area has, for the most part, maintained its original character without being too diluted with modern buildings.

We walked around Alberobello for a couple hours and then had lunch at a subterranean restaurant. The door to the restaurant was absolutely miniscule and opened to the tiniest stairway – actually, it would be more accurate to call it a ladder. At any rate, I was terrified to see what type of coffin-like place we were entering – and quite pleased to see that it opened up into a cavernous restaurant completely in contradiction to the panic-attack inducing front door.

After Alberobello it was off to Ostuni, Cisternino, and Noci…